Composting Techniques

Although many homeowners find composting a nuisance, there are reasons why practicing this method of treating wastes is part of being a good citizen. In this age of consideration for the environment, a major problem is that of disposing of the millions of tons of solid waste engendered by the processes of living.

Plant wastes, table scraps, dust from the vacuum cleaner, and many other materials discarded into the garbage can can go onto the compost pile, where they will serve a useful purpose instead of contributing to the community's problem. The number of different materials that can be disposed of in this way is amazing. They include dead rats, bones, table wastes, lawn clippings, leaves, weeds, plants pulled from the garden, hair, wood shavings and sawdust, spoiled grain, clippings from woolen cloth, as well as countless other substances that came originally from a living organism.

Starchy and sugary products - spoiled cereals, jellies, potato peelings, and similar materials - do supply bacteria with the energy foods they need to do their work, but they lack nitrogen, which is also essential. Added fertilizer will make up for this.

A traditional prohibition has been against the addition to the pile of fats, greases, and waxes. The reason given was that these materials prevented the decay of organic matter. While it is true that large amounts of fatty materials could prevent breakdown of the entire mass of organic matter, smaller amounts only slow up the process slightly. Actually, waxes and fats are needed in a finished compost because they are essential to the formation of humus, perhaps the most valuable form of organic matter in gardening.

A soggy compost pile will not work. Choose a well drained, level location in light shade. If located in a sunny spot, the heat in summer can go so high as to kill bacteria near the surface. As it is, the heat generated in decay can go as high as 150 degrees Fahrenheit inside the pile, so added sun heat is not needed. In arid regions, the pile can sit in a slight depression to save water, but should not be so deep that the bottom layer will drown.

Sprinkle the area where the compost is to be built with finely ground limestone, the grade used for topping driveways. Build the pile like a super "poor boy" sandwich out of the alternate layers of organic materials and good garden soil, each about 4 in. thick. Sprinkle every other layer with a commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-5, about as thick as sugaring strawberries. The layer that doesn't get fertilizer should be sprinkled with finely ground limestone.

Purely organic fertilizers are not as useful for this purpose because they must themselves be broken down before they will provide the necessary nutrients. However, those who wish to use organic materials exclusively can use dried blood, fish emulsion, or urine.

If the amount of organic matter available is small, the area covered by the pile should be reduced, so several layers can be built up in a short period. A depth of 2 or 3 ft. is necessary if the interior of the pile is to heat up properly. As each layer is placed, it should be sprinkled so that it will be moist but not soggy.

A month after it has been started (if the temperature is not below freezing) the pile should be turned over and over to mix thoroughly all the layers. This will release excess carbon dioxide that slows up bacterial action and will provide extra oxygen for the use of microorganisms. If the pile seems dry, moisten it. Turn again every month. Under ideal conditions, with outdoor temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit, the compost might be ready in three months, but over winter, may take eight to ten.